Updated config section (DraftShift#21)

* Update Configuration.md

Updated Config info

* Update Support.md

Added probable cause of tool not changing when printing.

wiki/Configuration.md

@@ -5,7 +5,10 @@ Toolchangers start with number 0, and count up. So for all the configs, make sur
 
 ## Toolheads Configuration
 
-Coming Soon
+Please see the repo files for more info on these. [Configuration Files Repo](https://github.com/Hellsparks/StealthChanger/blob/main/Klipper)
+
+You need to add the info in printer.cfg to your your printer.cfg
+You need to have a separate toolhead config for each toolhead, then link those in your printer.cfg, as well as removing/moving the current extruder/hotend config from your printer.cfg file. See the examples in the repo for more information and a starting place. You will have to edit them with your own values.
 
 
 ## CANbus

wiki/Support.md

@@ -25,7 +25,9 @@
 
 5. A lot of people are asking which toolhead/extruder is recommended. The answer is whatever you want. The changer and tools are completely separate. That being said, using something that is already a tested combination for Stealth Burner or Dragon Burner is going to be the easiest.
 
-6. CAN setup. You are definitely going to want to use CAN to connect your toolheads. Its only 4 wires and much lighter. You don't need anything fancy to split out the signal. Simple WAGO connectors work just fine. Of course, there are options for boards that will split the signal as well if you want something that looks a little more professional. Run wires up to the umbilical from your controller and power supply, then use WAGO's there to split the signal. See the guide here for a lot more CAN information: https://github.com/Esoterical/voron_canbus 
+6. CAN setup. You are definitely going to want to use CAN to connect your toolheads. Its only 4 wires and much lighter. You don't need anything fancy to split out the signal. Simple WAGO connectors work just fine. Of course, there are options for boards that will split the signal as well if you want something that looks a little more professional. Run wires up to the umbilical from your controller and power supply, then use WAGO's there to split the signal. See the guide here for a lot more CAN information: https://github.com/Esoterical/voron_canbus
+
+7. If you try to change tools during a print (or when the hotends are active) and it drops off one tool, then waits behind another tool and does nothing, the issue is that its probably waiting for the tool temp to stabilize. Make sure you run a PID tune for each tool and place the info in the corresponding tool config.
 
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