We're humbled by how much interest and love the NIBBLE and the TIDBIT have received. After lots of research, iteration, and feedback, we have what we hope is an even more popular follow-on to the two. The SNAP (we hope) takes the best of the two and then some. We hope you love building and using this board as much as we have.
- Default Keymap
- QMK Firmware
- Basic Skills: Soldering - Make sure you're prepared to solder your keyboard kit!
- Check the quality of your soldering joints!
- How to use a DMM - Important if you need to troubleshoot your build!
- Firmware Flashing Guide
| Item | Qty. | Image |
|---|---|---|
| Standoff, M2x3 | 16 |  |
| Standoff, M2x10 | 6 |  |
| Screw, M2x3 | 30 |  |
| Screw, M2x6 | 6 |  |
| Screw, M2x10 | 6 |  |
| Machined Knob | 1 |  |
| Item | Qty. | Image |
|---|---|---|
| 1N4148 Diode | 100 |  |
| 0.1μF Capacitor | 2 |  |
| 10KΩ Resistor | 2 |  |
| IC Socket | 2 |  |
| IC (74HC138N) | 2 |  |
| Reset Switch | 2 |  |
| WS2812B LED | 10 |  |
| TRRS Jack | 4 |  |
| Rotary Encoder | 1 |  |
| PTH Buzzer | 1 |  |
| PTH Pogo Pins (male) | 2 |  |
| PTH Pogo Pins (female) | 2 |  |
| 40-pin Breakaway Headers | 2 |  |
| Item | Qty. | Image |
|---|---|---|
| Top PCB plate (left) | 1 |  |
| Top PCB plate (right) | 1 |  |
| Bottom PCB plate (left) | 1 |  |
| Bottom PCB plate (right) | 1 |  |
| Middle acrylic spacer (left) | 1 |  |
| Middle acrylic spacer (right) | 1 |  |
| Top acrylic guard (left) | 1 |  |
| Top acrylic guard (right) | 1 |  |
| Item | Qty. | Image |
|---|---|---|
| TRRS cable | 1 |  |
| 3x6mm magnets | 6 |  |
| Magnet stickers | 6 |  |
| Mini bumpons | 8 |  |
- 2x BIT-C or other Pro Micro compatible MCU
- Qty. 92 PCB-mount switches (Cherry MX footprint)
- 5x 2U PCB-mount stabilizers*. Snap-in or screw in both work.
- 2x 2U stabs - one for each spacebar
- 3x 2U stabs - for left shift, enter, and backspace
- *[Optional] - 1x 2U stab if building with a 2.75U right shift
- Keycaps
- [OPTIONAL] Additional rotary encoder and knob
- [OPTIONAL] 0.91" 128x32 OLED Display(s)
- [OPTIONAL] FR4 switch plate
- [OPTIONAL] Mill-Max 0305, 3305, or 7305 hot-swap solder sockets
- Fine-tip soldering iron & solder
- Needle nose pliers
- Fine-point tweezers
- Phillips #0 screwdriver
- Snips for cutting leads
- Rubbing alcohol
- [Recommended] DMM/Multimeter
- [Recommended] USB Current Meter
Steps marked [OPTIONAL] aren't required for the base kit, but may be needed depending on what you choose to include in your build.
Recommended resource: soldering 5050 SMT LEDs
Solder the 10x WS2812B underglow LEDs, 5x on each keyboard half. Start by tacking down one corner, and then soldering the remaining 3 leads. After soldering, clean with rubbing alcohol.
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Bend and solder R1 on each keyboard half.
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After soldering, clean with rubbing alcohol and use the snips to clip the leads as close to the PCB as possible.
Fit and solder the reset switch on each keyboard half as shown below.
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After soldering, clean with rubbing alcohol.
Fit and solder the two IC sockets; one on each keyboard half. Match the notch in the socket with the one on the PCB. After soldering, clean with rubbing alcohol. Note: if you accidentally solder one or both sockets backward, don't panic! The sockets are passive components and will work in either orientation. The direction of the ICs themselves is what really matters, so just make sure to insert the IC in the correct direction later on in the build!
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Fit and solder the two capacitors; one on each keyboard half.
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After soldering, clean with rubbing alcohol and use the snips to clip the leads as close to the PCB as possible.
There are a number of diodes that aren't in the main group on the top of the keyboard: 13 on the left half, and 11 on the right half. Bend and fit the 1N4148 diodes. Bend the leads inward to hold the diodes in place when the PCB is turned upside down. Begin by soldering one side of the diodes and adjust the diode alignment to your liking before soldering the second lead.
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Bend and fit the remaining 1N4148 diodes for the top row. Bend the leads inward to hold the diodes in place when the PCB is turned upside down. Begin by soldering one side of the diodes and adjust the diode alignment to your liking before soldering the second lead.
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After soldering all diodes, clean with rubbing alcohol and use the snips to clip the leads as close to the PCB as possible.
Solder all 4 TRRS jacks (two keyboard side) in the locations shown. After soldering, clean with rubbing alcohol.
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Pay close attention! The pogo pins go on the bottom side of the PCBs! Look closely at the images below. Don't accidentally solder them on the wrong side of the PCB! In addition, the pogo pins are gendered. The male pogo pins mate with the female pogo pins, so double check that you have them on the correct sides before soldering.
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Solder the included pogo pins on the Bottom Side of the PCB (same side as the optional LEDs). The male pogo pins go on the left half of the keyboard, and the female pins go on the right half.
It's highly recommended that you flash the MCU (Bit-C or Pro Micro) before soldering it so you can be sure it's working properly. Jump to step 22 to flash QMK firmware.
Use header pins to solder the MCUs to the keyboard. Fit and solder the BIT-C or Pro Micro MCU as shown below using 0.1" male header pins. After soldering, clean with rubbing alcohol and use the snips to clip the pins as close to the PCB as possible.
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If building with the optional rotary encoders, fit and solder one in each desired position(s) shown. One rotary encoder can be installed directly below the MCU on each side of the board. After soldering, clean with rubbing alcohol and use the snips to clip the pins as close to the PCB as possible. Note that it is not necessary to solder the large side support pins on the rotary encoder. Do not clip the large support pins on the encoder.
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If building with the optional speaker, fit and solder it in the position shown. The speaker is installed on the left side of the board. After soldering, clean with rubbing alcohol and use the snips to clip the pins as close to the PCB as possible.
If building with the optional OLED displays, fit and solder each in the position each shown. One OLED can be installed on each side of the board above the diodes. After soldering, clean with rubbing alcohol and use the snips to clip the pins as close to the PCB as possible.
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Carefully bend the IC leads inward so that they are the width of the socket. It helps to set the IC on its side on a flat surface and use a tool to bend all leads at once.
While supporting the back of the PCB with one hand, push on the top of the IC using your thumb until it sits flush in the socket. If you feel leads bending, stop and carefully straighten them before continuing.
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The SNAP PCB includes guide marks for the switches and stabilizers to make their placement easier. The center of each switch lines up with a letter for a particular layout. The tables below show which markings to follow based on key configuration. Familiarize yourself with the standard layout before soldering. The color coding and markings in the link above match the table below, so refer back to that if needed.
Caps lock (light yellow)
| Guide Mark | Layout Option |
|---|---|
| A | Stepped 1.75U caps lock |
| B | Standard 1.75U caps lock |
Left shift (dark yellow)
| Guide Mark | Layout Option |
|---|---|
| C | 2.25U left shift + stab |
| D | 1.25U/1U (ISO) left shift |
Spacebar (light green)
| Guide Mark | Layout Option |
|---|---|
| E | 1.25U Fn, 2.25U spacebar + stab |
| F | 2.25U spacebar + stab, 1.25U Fn |
Right modifiers (purple)
| Guide Mark | Layout Option |
|---|---|
| G | 5x 1U modifiers + arrows |
| H | 4x 1.25U modifiers and no arrows |
Right shift (dark green)
| Guide Mark | Layout Option |
|---|---|
| I | 1.75U + 1U shift + up arrow |
| J | 2.75U shift + stab |
Enter key
| Guide Mark | Layout Option |
|---|---|
| K | 1.25U + 1U ISO + stab |
| L | 2.25U ANSI + stab |
Backspace
| Guide Mark | Layout Option |
|---|---|
| M | 2U + stab |
| N | 1U + 1U split backspace |
It's highly recommended that you test each key at this point before continuing. If you haven't already, Jump to step 21 to flash QMK firmware. Use a keyboard tester (using via in Test Matrix mode is recommended) and short the switch pads for each switch using tweezers, a clipped lead from earlier, or something else conductive. If there is an issue, it will be much easier to debug now before everything has been soldered and assembled.
In the locations shown, screw the M2x3 standoffs into the bottom side of the TOP PCB plate. Fasten using 14 M2x3 screws (7 on each half). Use pliers to hold the standoff steady while tightening the screw. Do not overtighten! This step is extra important if you are building with a plate, since it's more difficult to access the screws with the plate in place, so double check this! The standoffs go on the bottom side of the board.
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Snap in the PCB-mount stabilizers as shown below. The tab goes in the big hole, and the retaining clips go in the small holes. The stabilizers will only snap in one way. Make sure the stabilizer is fully seated, or the keycap won't move properly once it's installed. If using screw-in stabilizers, do not use the included washer between the screw and the PCB. The acrylic will not seat properly on top of the washer.
If building with hotswap sockets, drop one into each plated lead hole and affix with tape (masking or electrical tape works well). Alternatively, insert them onto each lead of the PCB mount switch before proceeding.
If you are using 5-pin PCB mount switches, they may take some force to insert. This is by design. For PCB mount switches, a tight fit makes the switches more stable. Snap in by supporting the back of the PCB, and then pushing hard on the top of the switch. It helps to use a spare keycap on the switch to take some of the pressure off your thumb. After snapping the switch in, make sure it's sitting flush against the PCB.
Note that some of the switches go in "sideways" and "upside down". This is by design! T, Y, \, Enter, Backspace, and Caps Lock are all switches that might be installed in different orientations.
If building with hotswap sockets and a switch plate, you will need to remove the switches from the sockets after soldering in order to fit them into the plate for final assembly.
Make sure each switch pin has enough solder to form a nice solid joint.
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If building with hotswap sockets and a switch plate, after soldering, insert switches into the switch plate before installing on the PCB. It helps to seat switches in the corner positions on the plate, then insert into the sockets, then insert the remaining switches into the plate and sockets. The plate may have holes, but is not attached to the rest of the board with any screws or standoffs. The holes are for accessing the screws below the switch plate.
The SNAP uses magnets affixed to the acrylic support layers in order to hold the two sides together when the pogo pins are used. The magnets are held in place with the thin, clear magnet stickers, but can also be fastened with glue (CA, epoxy, or hot glue) for a more secure and permanent solution. If using glue to secure the magnets, double (actually, triple!) check that the magnets for the left and right side are in the correct orientation and attract each other!
The magnets install in sets of two in the acrylic cutouts as shown below. Note that the paper backing should be removed before this step, but is shown on the acrylic for higher contrast and better visibility.
To install the magnets, first cut the clear magnet stickers in half and split the magnets into pairs of two.
Then, unpeel one sticker half and place the end of a magnet on the center of the sticky part of the sticker.
With the acrylic off the board, align the magnet with the center of the cutout, and stick the front face of the sticker onto the acrylic.
Tightly both sides of the magnet sticker over so that it holds the magnet in place.
Do this for three of the notches on the left side of the board first, and then the same on the right side of the board. Make sure to set check that the magnets on the right side are attracted to the ones on the left side before sticking them on with the stickers.
Test fit the acrylic before the next step to make sure all sets of magnets snap and hold the two sides tightly together, and don't repel each other. If any of the magnet pairs are in the wrong orientation and are not attracting each other, carefully unpeel the sticker holding one of the magnets in place and reverse the orientation before continuing.
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Peel the backing material off the acrylic spacer. Make sure the acrylic spacer sits flat against the PCB plate. Check for interferences due to leads or solder joints. Trim if needed.
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Place the bottom PCB plate on top of the acrylic spacer. In the same locations where the 14 standoffs were installed, fasten with 14 M2x3 screws (7 on each half). Do not overtighten!
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Fasten using 2 M2x10 screws. Use pliers to hold the standoff steady while tightening the screw.
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Fasten using 2 M2x6 screws. Don't overtighten these, as it can crack the top guard.
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Follow the Firmware flashing guide to flash the board's firmware. Note that the firmware files and flashing process differ between Pro Micro/Bit-C (AVR) and Bit-C PRO (RP2040)!
Heads up: both sides of the keyboard must be flashed for it to work!
Helpful reference pinouts:
MCU Pinout (Left)
MCU Pinout (Right)
OLED Pinout
None of the keys are working
- Is the firmware loaded?
- Try with a different USB cable, USB port, and PC.
- If you soldered the LEDs, check that none have been soldered backward. The keyboard will not work if an LED was mistakenly soldered backward.
- Check the direction of the diodes. The back bar should be facing upwards.
- Check the direction of the ICs. The keyboard will not work if they are in the socket backward.
- Check that there are no shorts and that the keyboard is powering up properly. None of the solder joints should be touching each other.
A single key is not working
- Check that the switch is soldered properly at both pins.
- Bypass the switch by shorting the two pads with tweezers. If that works, the switch is to blame and should be replaced. If it does not, the diode soldering is likely the issue. You can use the diode key to match diodes with a switch!
- Check that all of the diodes are soldered properly at both pins.
- Check that the keymap you are using is defined correctly and matches your keyboard layout.
A whole row is not working
- This is usually caused by a cold solder joint at the MCU. Check that all pins on the MCU are soldered properly.
- Check that the proper rows and columns are set in QMK config.h
A whole column is not working
- Check that all pins on the MCU are soldered properly.
- Check that the proper rows and columns are set in QMK config.h
- Check that all pins on the ICs are soldered properly.
The rotary encoder is not working
- Check that all pins on the rotary encoder are soldered properly.
- Check that the A and B pins are set in QMK config.h and that ENCODER_ENABLE = yes in QMK rules.mk.
The OLED is not working
- Check that all pins on the OLED are soldered properly.
- The OLED is not enabled in the default firmware. Load the 'oled' firmware, available on the QMK repo.
Two or more keys are swapped
- Check that the keymap you are using is defined correctly and matches your keyboard layout.
The underglow LEDs are not working
- Check that the RGB_DI_PIN pin is set in QMK config.h and that RGBLIGHT_ENABLE = yes in QMK rules.mk.
- Check that all LEDs are soldered in the proper orientation.
There's no power
- Check that all LEDs are soldered in the proper orientation.
- Check the direction of the ICs.
- Check for other shorts – solder blobs, leads that were not clipped all the way, etc.
How to I do X in firmware?
- See the QMK docs, or make a post on r/olkb for help.
- Make a post on the r/nullbits subreddit, or join the #firmware channel in the nullbits discord server.
Something else?
- Visit nullbits.co/support/
- Reach out at [email protected]
- Join our Discord!