Please report any issues and feel free to raise pull requests. Many others have contributed their help already.
This is a Home Assistant integration to support devices running Tuya firmware without going via the Tuya cloud. Devices are supported over WiFi, other technologies need a Tuya gateway device (Zigbee devices will work with other Zigbee gateways, but not via this integration).
Note that many Tuya devices seem to support only one local connection. If you have connection issues when using this integration, ensure that other integrations offering local Tuya connections are not configured to use the same device, mobile applications on devices on the local network are closed, and no other software is trying to connect locally to your Tuya devices.
Using this integration does not stop your devices from sending status to the Tuya cloud, so this should not be seen as a security measure, rather it improves speed and reliability by using local connections, and may unlock some features of your device, or even unlock whole devices, that are not supported by the Tuya cloud API.
A similar but unrelated integration is rospogrigio/localtuya, if your device is not supported by this integration, you may find it easier to set up using that as an alternative.
Note that devices sometimes get firmware upgrades, or incompatible versions are sold under the same model name, so it is possible that the device will not work despite being listed.
Battery powered devices such as door and window sensors, smoke alarms etc which do not use a hub will be impossible to support locally, due to the power management that they need to do to get acceptable battery life.
Hubs are currently supported, but with limitations. Each connection to a sub device uses a separate network connection, but like other Tuya devices, hubs are usually limited in the number of connections they can handle, with typical limits being 1 or 3, depending on the specific Tuya module they are using. This severely limits the number of sub devices that can be connected through this integration.
Sub devices should be added using the device_id, address and local_key
of the hub they are attached to, and the node_id of the sub-device. If there
is no node_id listed, try using the uuid instead.
Tuya Zigbee devices are usually standard zigbee devices, so as an alternative to this integration with a Tuya hub, you can use a supported Zigbee USB stick or Wifi hub with ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT.
Tuya Bluetooth devices can be supported directly by the tuya_ble integration.
Tuya IR hubs that expose general IR remotes as sub devices usually expose them as one way devices (send only). Due to the way this integration does device detection based on the dps returned by the device, it is not currently able to detect such devices at all. Some specialised IR hubs for air conditioner remote controls do work, as they try to emulate a fully smart air conditioner using internal memory of what settings are currently set, and internal temperature and humidity sensors.
A list of currently supported devices can be found in the DEVICES.md file.
Documentation on building a device configuration file is in /custom_components/tuya_local/devices/README.md
If your device is not listed, you can find the information required to add a configuration for it in the following locations:
- When attempting to add the device, if it is not supported, you will either get a message saying the device cannot be recognised at all, or you will be offered a list of devices that are partial matches. You can cancel the process at this point, and look in the Home Assistant log - there should be a message there containing the current data points (dps) returned by the device.
- If you have signed up for iot.tuya.com to get your local key, you should also have access to the API Explorer under "Cloud". Under "Device Control" there is a function called "Query Things Data Model", which returns the dp_id in addition to range information that is needed for integer and enum data types.
If you file an issue to request support for a new device, please include the following information:
- Identification of the device, such as model and brand name.
- As much information on the datapoints you can gather using the above methods.
- If manuals or webpages are available online, links to those help understand how to interpret the technical info above - even if they are not in English automatic translations can help, or information in them may help to identify identical devices sold under other brands in other countries that do have English or more detailed information available.
If you submit a pull request, please understand that the config file naming and details of the configuration may get modified before release - for example if your name was too generic, I may rename it to a more specific name, or conversely if the device appears to be generic and sold under many brands, I may change the brand specific name to something more general. So it may be necessary to remove and re-add your device once it has been integrated into a release.
Installation is easiest via the Home Assistant Community Store (HACS), which is the best place to get third-party integrations for Home Assistant. Once you have HACS set up, simply click the button below (requires My Homeassistant configured) or follow the instructions for adding a custom repository and then the integration will be available to install like any other.
After installing, you can easily configure your devices using the Integrations configuration UI. Go to Settings / Devices & Services and press the Add Integration button, or click the shortcut button below (requires My Homeassistant configured).
There are two options for configuring a device:
- You can login to Tuya cloud with the Smart Life app and retrieve a list of devices and the necessary local connection data.
- You can provide all the necessary information manually as per the instructions below.
The first choice essentially automates all the manual steps of the second and without needing to create a Tuya IOT developer account. This is especially important now that Tuya has started time limiting access to a key data access capability in the IOT developer portal to only a month with the ability to refresh the trial of that only every 6 months.
The cloud assisted choice will guide you through authenticating, choosing a device to add from the list of devices associated with your Smart Life account, locate the device on your local subnet and then drop you into Stage One with fully populated data necessary to move forward to Stage Two.
Then Smart Life authentication token expires after a small number of hours and so is not saved by the integration. But, as long as you don't restart Home Assistant, this allows you to add multiple devices one after another only needing to authenticate once for the first one.
The first stage of configuration is to provide the information needed to connect to the device.
You will need to provide your device's IP address or hostname, device ID and local key; the last two can be found using the instructions below.
(string) (Required) IP or hostname of the device.
(string) (Required) Device ID retrieved as per the instructions below.
(string) (Required) Local key retrieved as per the instructions below.
(string or float) (Required) Valid options are "auto", 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4. If you aren't sure, choose "auto", but some 3.2 and maybe 3.4 devices may be misdetected as 3.3 (or vice-versa), so if your device does not seem to respond to commands reliably, try selecting between those protocol versions.
At the end of this step, an attempt is made to connect to the device and see if it returns any data. For tuya protocol version 3.1 devices, the local key is only used for sending commands to the device, so if your local key is incorrect the setup will appear to work, and you will not see any problems until you try to control your device. For more recent Tuya protocol versions, the local key is used to decrypt received data as well, so an incorrect key will be detected at this step and cause an immediate failure. Note that each time you pair the device, the local key changes, so if you obtained the local key using the instructions below, then re-paired with your manufacturer's app, then the key will have changed already.
The second stage of configuration is to select which device you are connecting. The list of devices offered will be limited to devices which appear to be at least a partial match to the data returned by the device.
(string) (Optional) The type of Tuya device. Select from the available options.
If you pick the wrong type, you will need to delete the device and set it up again. This is because different types of devices create different entities, so changing the device type without deleting everything is not easy.
The final stage is to choose a name for the device in Home Assistant.
If you have multiple devices of the same type, you may want to change the name to make it easier to distinguish them.
(string) (Required) Any unique name for the device. This will be used as the base for the entity names in Home Assistant. Although Home Assistant allows you to change the name later, it will only change the name used in the UI, not the name of the entities.
Many Tuya devices will stop responding if unable to connect to the Tuya servers for an extended period. Reportedly, some devices act better offline if DNS as well as TCP connections is blocked.
Many Tuya devices do not handle multiple commands sent in quick succession. Some will reboot, possibly changing state in the process, others will go offline for 30s to a few minutes if you overload them. There is some rate limiting to try to avoid this, but it is not sufficient for many devices, and may not work across entities where you are sending commands to multiple entities on the same device. The rate limiting also combines commands, which not all devices can handle. If you are sending commands from an automation, it is best to add delays between commands - if your automation is for multiple devices, it might be enough to send commands to other devices first before coming back to send a second command to the first one, or you may still need a delay after that. The exact timing depends on the device, so you may need to experiment to find the minimum delay that gives reliable results.
Some devices can handle multiple commands in a single message, so for
entity platforms that support it (eg climate set_temperature can
include presets, lights pretty much everything is set through
turn_on) multiple settings are sent at once. But some devices do
not like this and require all commands to set only a single dp at a
time, so you may need to experiment with your automations to see
whether a single command or multiple commands (with delays, see above)
work best with your devices.
When adding devices, some devices that are detected as protocol version 3.3 at first require version 3.2 to work correctly. Either they cannot be detected, or work as read-only if the pprotocol is set to 3.3.
Goldair GPPH heaters have individual target temperatures for their
Comfort and Eco modes, whereas Home Assistant only supports a single
target temperature. Therefore, when you're in Comfort mode you will
set the Comfort temperature (5-35), and when you're in Eco mode
you will set the Eco temperature (5-21), just like you were using
the heater's own control panel. Bear this in mind when writing
automations that change the operation mode and set a temperature at
the same time: you must change the operation mode before setting the
new target temperature, otherwise you will set the current thermostat
rather than the new one.
When switching to Anti-freeze mode, the heater will set the current
power level to 1 as if you had manually chosen it. When you switch
back to other modes, you will no longer be in Auto and will have to
set it again if this is what you wanted. This could be worked around
in code however it would require storing state that may be cleared if
HA is restarted and due to this unreliability it's probably best that
you just factor it into your automations.
When child lock is enabled, the heater's display will flash with the
child lock symbol ([]) whenever you change something in HA. This can
be confusing because it's the same behaviour as when you try to change
something via the heater's own control panel and the change is
rejected due to being locked, however rest assured that the changes
are taking effect.
When setting the target temperature, different heaters have different behaviour, which you may need to compensate for. From observation, GPPH heaters allow the temperature to reach 3 degrees higher than the set temperature before turning off, and 1 degree lower before turning on again. Kogan Heaters on the other hand turn off when the temperature reaches 1 degree over the target in LOW mode, and turn on again 3 degrees below the target. To make these heaters act the same in LOW power mode, you need to set the Kogan thermostat 2 degrees higher than the GPPH thermostat. In HIGH power mode however, they seem to act the same as the GPPH heaters.
The Inkbird thermostat switch does not seem to work for setting anything. If you can figure out how to make setting temperatures and presets work, please leave feedback in Issue #19.
Reportedly, Goldair fans can be a bit flaky. If they become unresponsive, give them about 60 seconds to wake up again.
Anko fans mostly work, except setting the speed does not seem to work. If you can figure out how to set the speed through the Tuya protocol for these devices, please leave feedback on Issue #22.
It has been observed after a while that the current and power readings from the switch were returning 0 when there was clearly a load on the switch. After unplugging and replugging, the switch started returning only dps 1 and 2 (switch status and timer). If HomeAssistant is restarted in that state, the switch detection would fail, however as Home Assistant was left running, it continued to work with no readings for the current, power and voltage. I unplugged the switch overnight, and in the morning it was working correctly.
Cumulative Energy readings seem to be reset whenever the reading is successfully sent to the server. This leads to the energy usage never moving from the minimum reporting level of 0.1kWh, which isn't very useful. It may be possible to get useful readings by blocking the switch from accessing the internet, otherwise an integration sensor based on the Power sensor will need to be set up on the Home Assistant side, and the Energy sensor ignored.
For the amount of consumed energy, it may be reasonable to use an additional
helper - the Riemann integral.
Select power of switch as the sensor for it. The result of the integral will be
calculated in (k/M/G/T)W*h and will correspond to the consumed energy.
Although these look like simple devices, their behaviour is not consistent so they are difficult to detect. Sometimes they are misdetected as a simple switch, other times they only output the temperature sensor so are not detected at all.
Some of these devices support switching between Celcius and Fahrenheit
on the control panel, but do not provide any information over the Tuya
local protocol about which units are selected. Three configurations
for BHP6000 are provided, beca_bhp6000_thermostat_c and
beca_bhp6000_thermostat_f, which use Celsius and Fahrenheit
respectively, and beca_bhp6000_thermostat_mapped for a buggy looking
firmware which displays the temperature on the thermostat in Celsius
in increments of half a degree, but uses a slightly offset Fahrenheit
for the protocol, as detailed in issue #215. Please select the appropriate
config for the temperature units you use. If you change the units on the
device control panel, you will need to delete the device from Home Assistant
and set it up again.
These support configuration as either heating or cooling controllers, but only have one output. The HVAC mode is provided as an indicator of which mode they are in, but are set to readonly so that you cannot accidentally switch the thermostat to the wrong mode from HA.
The easiest way to find your local key is with the Tuya Developer portal. If you have previously configured the built in Tuya cloud integration, or localtuya, you probably already have a developer account with the Tuya app linked. Note that you need to use Tuya's own branded "Tuya Smart" or "SmartLife" apps to access devices through the developer portal. For most devices, your device will work identically with those apps as it does with your manufacturer's branded app, but there are a few devices where that is not the case and you will need to decide whether you are willing to potentially lose access to some functionality (such as mapping for some vacuum cleaners).
If you log on to your Developer Portal account, under Cloud you should be able to get a list of your devices, which contains the "Device ID". If you don't see them, check your server is set correctly at the top of the page. Make a note of the Device IDs for all your devices, then select Cloud on the side bar again and go to the API Explorer.
Under "Devices Management", select the "Query Device Details in Bulk" function, and enter your Device IDs, separated by commas. In the results you should see your local_key.
The IP address you should be able to get from your router. Using a command line Tuya client like tuyaapi/cli or tinytuya you may also be able to scan your network for Tuya devices to find the IP address and also automate the above process of connecting to the portal and getting the local key.
You can use this component's underlying library tinytuya to scan for devices in your network and find the required information about them. In particular, you need to use this procedure to obtain the node_id value required to connect to hub-dependent devices.
Before running tinytuya's wizard you need to gather your API credentials so head to Tuya's Developer Portal -> Cloud -> Development -> Open project and make a note of:
- Access ID/Client ID
- Access Secret/Client Secret
Next, go to the "Devices" tab and note your device id (any of them will work). Also note your region (eg. "Central Europe Data Center") in the combobox at the top right of the page.
Then, open a terminal in your HA machine and run:
python -m tinytuya wizardAnswer the following:
- Enter API Key from tuya.com: your "Access ID/Client ID"
- Enter API Secret from tuya.com: your "Access Secret/Client Secret"
- Enter any Device ID currently registered in Tuya App (used to pull full list) or 'scan' to scan for one: your device id
- Enter Your Region: your datacenter's region
- Download DP Name mappings? (Y/n): Y
- Poll local devices? (Y/n): Y
If your device supports local connections and is in the same network as your HA instance this should find it and report its IP address.
In the devices.json file you will everything you need to add your device:
- "id": the device id
- "key": the local key
- "node_id": the sub-device id. You need this for hub-dependent devices
- "mapping": in the unfortunate case your device is not yet supported, this key contains a description of all the datapoints reported by the device, type and expected values. You are more than welcome to create a new device specification following the guidelines and submitting a PR.
If your device connects via a hub (eg. battery powered water timers) you have to provide the following info when adding a new device:
- Device id (uuid): this is the hub's device id
- IP address or hostname: the hub's IP address or hostname
- Local key: the hub's local key
- Sub device id: the actual device you want to control's
node_id. Note thisnode_iddiffers from the device id, you can find it with tinytuya as described below.
- This component is mostly unit-tested thanks to the upstream project, but there are a few more to complete. Feel free to use existing specs as inspiration and the Sonar Cloud analysis to see where the gaps are.
- Once unit tests are complete, the next task is to complete the Home Assistant quality checklist before considering submission to the HA team for inclusion in standard installations.
- Discovery seems possible with the new tinytuya library, though the steps to get a local key will most likely remain manual. Discovery also returns a productKey, which might help make the device detection more reliable where different devices use the same dps mapping but different names for the presets for example.