diff --git a/help/dactyl_print.md b/help/dactyl_print.md index 3dc824f..7649632 100644 --- a/help/dactyl_print.md +++ b/help/dactyl_print.md @@ -24,11 +24,94 @@ Our keyboards are complex models. While we did our best to make them less diffic - PLA is easiest to print. - Plastics with patterns in it works best - eg. Prusament Galaxy or Fillamentum Extrafill. -# Quality settings - -From personal experience, **0.15mm** is a good **layer height**. Going lower than that doesn't show an increase in visual quality and adds a long time to the print. - -Printing with a **0.4mm nozzle** is recommended over a 0.6, as larger nozzles leave more visible lines on the flat curves of the keyboard. The difference is very visible. +# Print settings + +## Temperature + +Printing at lower temperatures makes the plastic more matte rather than glossy. We recommend 195 to 210C for PLA, depending on your plastic. + +## For Prusa printers + +If you are using a prusa printer, print in: + +- 0.15mm structural profile +- supports on build plate only +- support type: grid (important!) +- nozzle temperature: 200 for MK3, MK3.5, MK4. 210 for MK4S + +## For other printers + +The following settings were tested on a BambuLabs A1 Mini and worked well. +They were worked from the `0.16mm High Quality` profile in Bambu Studio. + +**Filament settings:** + +| Description | Value | +| -------------------------- | ----------------------------- | +| No cooling for the first | 1 layer | +| Min fan speed threshold | 65% fan speed, 75s layer time | +| Max fan speed threshold | 80% fan speed, 6s layer time | +| Auxiliary part cooling fan | 80% | +| Cooling overhang threshold | 0% | +| Keep fan always on | true | +| Min print speed | 20 | +| Bed temperature | 65 | +| Nozzle temperature | 210 | + +**Quality setings:** + +| Description | Value | +| --------------------- | ----- | +| Brim type | None | +| Layer height | 0.15 | +| Initial layer height | 0.15 | +| Line width: support | 0.36 | +| Sparse infill density | 30% | +| Wall loops | 4 | + +**Acceleration settings:** + +| Description | Value | +| --------------- | ----- | +| Normal printing | 2000 | + + +**Speed settings:** + +| Description | Value | +| ------------------------- | ----- | +| Gap infill | 120 | +| Inner wall | 60 | +| Internal solid infill | 120 | +| Outer wall | 25 | +| Overhang speed (10%, 25%) | 30 | +| Overhang speed (25%, 50%) | 25 | +| Sparse infill | 120 | +| Support interface | 50 | +| Support | 120 | +| Top surface | 80 | +| Initial layer infill | 60 | +| Initial layer | 30 | + + +**Support settings:** + +| Description | Value | +| -------------------------------- | ----------- | +| Enable support | true | +| On build plate only | true | +| Remove small overhangs | false | +| Style | Grid | +| Threshold angle | 50 | +| Independent support layer height | false | +| Initial layer expansion | 8 | +| Base pattern | Rectilinear | +| Bottom Z distance | 0.17 | +| Bottom interface layers | 0 | +| Top interface spacing | 0.2 | +| Top interface layers | 5 | +| Support/object xy distance | 1 | +| Top Z distance | 0.17 | # Bed adhesion @@ -41,26 +124,3 @@ If your print does not stick, here are a few pointers: - Use glue - paper glue or wood glue diluted with water works well - Disable the parts fan for the first layer - Make sure your bed is leveled correctly - -# Supports - -Here's what we found works best for me in prusaslicer: - -**General settings:** -- 75% XY separation -- 0.1-0.25mm Z distance -- 3-4 layer interface* -- 100% fan speed (except for 1st layer) -- 0.2mm interface spacing - -*If your printer has good cooling, you may go to 1 or 0 layer interface to save print time - -**For Scylla / Charybdis :** -- tree / organic supports - -**For Skeletyl / Charybdis Nano :** -- 2-3mm rectilinear pattern - - - -